The Color Code

by Nels Frye

Updated Time: January 7, 2009

Chinafotopress

Color challenges men. Science shows this. Ten percent of males are color-blind, though this usually goes undetected. To compensate, male fashion has strict rules and a uniform — the suit — to protect us against color-clash catastrophe. Projecting a dynamic and professional image at work is so simple that the real shock is that so few men bother with it.

CONTRAST

For suited men, a key goal is contrast, usually between lights and darks, or neutrals and brighter colors. Ground outfits with grays, navies, blacks and whites. Wearing just neutrals, when done well, can be understated and sophisticated, but the wearer risks seeming washed-out or dull; costly fabrics with appealing textures can help. Monochromatic is very 90s and combining analogous colors like blue and green is tricky. Brighter, contrasting colors add energy, though over-indulgence in them can make the wearer appear brash or recklessly youthful. A middle-ground that confines boldness to ties and pocket squares offers the most versatile wardrobe.

TIES, SHIRTS AND SUITS

Most workdays, men should wear a dark blue or gray suit — in solids, subtly textured or with pinstripes — and a white, blue or pink shirt in solids or understated checks or stripes.

Some expensive ties in navy, medium or dark blue, maroon, red, dark purple, green, dark charcoal or black add versatility and class to a wardrobe. If need be, compromise on shirts but resist buying ties in bulk at the Silk Market. Intense color is fine — ties should "pop" out from the shirt — but avoid shininess, or you will look the equivalent of a woman with a fake Louis Vuitton bag.

Just three solid ties, six basic shirts and three suits could provide up to 54 distinctive looks for work. With good materials and tailored fits, this small wardrobe can beat those possessed by 95% of professionals. These basics form a good base on which to build a more distinctive wardrobe, starting with striped and dot ties, all of which should have a strong base color such as navy, black or gray serving as the foil for the brighter colors that then stand out from the background.

SHOES WITH SUITS

Coordinating the shoes with the suit is the next key to a successful business outfit. Suits in navy or other shades of dark blue are most commonly paired with black shoes. No-one will glance twice at this most conservative combination.

Nonetheless, blues are complementary to orange, rusts and browns on the color wheel. Thus, the most harmonious color of shoe for navy suits is brown, in its many shades. To be aesthetically pleasing but still safe, choose a dark brown shoe to wear with a navy suit. Black shoes should be kept for charcoal and lighter gray suits, though brown shoes also go well with gray suits.

Brown is the more versatile shoe color, though its lighter shades like tan are usually far too attention-grabbing. One pair of brown cap-toes and one of black will be enough for most men. One combination most people agree on as egregious is a black suit with brown shoes. Black is not a traditional color for suits in the office. It should be saved for funerals, fashionistas and women.

THE FAIL-SAFE OPTION

Navy or gray suit, light shirt, solid tie, and dark brown shoes never fails – just add a white linen pocket square. A simple look like this is ideal for interviews, meetings with everyone from investors to government ministers, and the chic elegance of it makes it work for a classy night out. The only requirement is that these basics be in high-quality materials and with a perfect fit. Once the basics are secure, integrating more complex patterns and colors into a wardrobe becomes effortless.